Of course AF is useful for general and portrait work if you want your macro lens to be a general lens.
#CANON MACRO 100MM FOCUS LINE MANUAL#
It’s also easier to magnify the image and get exactly the part you want in focus with manual focus than moving the AF point, using AF, locking it, and then checking to make sure it was correct. Very often you will want to set the magnification and then move the lens to focus, and the danger with an AF lens is that focus may shift, even if you lock it. Auto Focus vs Manual FocusĪuto focus is not really a good idea in the macro range. This is why one of us uses a 35mm and sometimes a 15mm macro along with the more usual lengths (50, 90, 150). Shorter lenses make you feel you are an ant, right there in with the tiny items you are photographing. Longer lenses give you a flattened perspective (think of how a long portrait lens flattens faces, for better or worse). But we should not ignore the fact that perspective plays a part in macro just as it does with normal photography. Focal Length – PerspectiveĪs we have seen the longer macro lens gives you more working distance, and some say that the longer the general. I was lucky that the butterfly wasn‘t shy because I had to get really close fore this image. Since many lenses have a shorter focal length when focused very closely working distance can vary greatly between lenses of very similar focal length. In general lenses with a longer focal length have more a longer working distance. So to capture subjects like insects this is a pretty important measure. The distance between the front of your lens and your subject is called working distance. If the front of your lens gets really close to your subject you might make it flee or cast a shadow onto it. These are only achievable with specialists macro lenses that generally can only be used in the macro range. The next two magnifications are twice life size (2:1) and five times life size (5:1). The jump to life-size, 1:1 is a dramatic change in the image, it no longer looks the way it is easy to visualise with the naked eye.
#CANON MACRO 100MM FOCUS LINE SERIES#
The series then goes to 1:2, the magnification which is the best some “macro” lenses can achieve. The series starts at 1:5 which is the kind of magnification you might get with a non-macro lens which nevertheless has closer than usual focus. Here is a series of images of a Hellebore flower to give you a sense of the magnifications. There are also lenses with a magnification ration greater than 1:1 which usually can’t focus to infinity. On a 1:2 lens your subject can be as small as 72x48mm (half life size). This reproduction ratio is called life size. A macro-lens with a maximal reproduction ratio of 1:1 used on a Sony a7 series camera will allow you to fill the frame of an object which has the same size as the sensor which is about 36x24mm. The typical measure for how small the subects you can capture will be is the reproduction ratio. Things to consider when buying a macro lens Voigtlander MACRO 110mm F2.5 APO-Lanthar.Things to consider when buying a macro lens.: Canon EOS R5 C training series is released. If you want, I have posted many shots with this lens and the R5 in the users photo section of this forum with EXIF info, so you may be able to glean some info from them that will help. Once again, sorry you are having this issue. Not that I doubt it exists, it's just that there seem to be lots of folks besides me who don't see it as an issue, or a deal breaker for that matter. Since I own the EF version, I took my time researching this lens and bought it because of the outstanding reviews, sample images, and videos, none of which mentioned focus shift. For whatever reason, I don't notice focus shift. I do this (ISO) to keep my shutter up (I shake). I also use high shutter speeds and higher than normal (for others) ISO. At f/16 it starts to get soft due to diffraction I'm sure. Generally when I'm shooting hand held, I use apertures ranging from f/8 to f/16. In fact, I shot several stacks today, 160 total shots in four stacks, and all of my starting points were dead on using AF at f/3.2, which in theory should show very little shift anyway. I hand hold and "run and gun" as you say, but do use a tripod on occasion. I own the EF version as well and used it on the R5, then went straight from it to the RF with very few changes, mostly in post where I use a bit more unsharp masking. As I mentioned earlier in this post, I don't notice it in my day to day. Sorry you are having this problem and I wish I knew exactly what I am doing to avoid it.
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